
Don’t attempt the above title. Bolivia deserves so much more. We started to run out of time in South America and wondered if we would achieve our raison d’entre a la Bolivia – the salt flats in the south. We arrived to La Paz late Monday night to deserted streets filled with thugs and bums, enjoying a $1 beer at the Hard Rock with Mr. Jones blaring a deafening beat. We riffled through brochures and the guidebook debating whether the salt flats were worth the 11-hour bone jarring bus drive. (more…)
Filed under: Bolivia on July 26th, 2007 | 2 Comments »

The floating islands of Lake Titicaca, albeit somewhat beautiful, are barely a one-nighter on the way to Bolivia overland. The town in which it resides, Puno, is a complete dump. (more…)
Filed under: Peru on July 25th, 2007 | 1 Comment »

There are various ways to get to Machu Picchu, one of the newly designated seventh wonders of the world. We chose the road less traveled, the Lares Trek, over the illustrious Inca trail. It was just us, our guide, Julio, and herd of llamas – and not one encounter with another gringo soul. (more…)
Filed under: Peru on July 17th, 2007 | 3 Comments »

Craving independence? What’s the ultimate sign of independence? The motorcycle! The Harley promotional sign at the Cusco airport flashed and blared at me as I stepped into the baggage area after coming off our overly organized jungle tour. (more…)
Filed under: Peru on July 16th, 2007 | 2 Comments »

Hut – 2 -3 -4. Attention! Welcome to the Jungle. El Amazonia. All we knew is that we wanted to see the Amazon. Then all we wanted was a way out. Too lazy to read the guide book, we signed up with a local tour operator, Max, to the Eco Amazonia boot camp near Puerto Morterello in the Western Amazon basin. (more…)
Filed under: Peru on July 15th, 2007 | 3 Comments »

We arrived to Cusco amongst a series of intermittent protests and disrupted backpackers. This is quite an impressive little city steeped in Inca history and a great home base to jet off to any adventure that inspires – a boat cruise down the Amazon, the infamous hike of Machu Picchu, or white water rafting. At 3500 meters, surrounded by mountains, its crisp fresh air and sparkling plaza filled with cafes and restaurants is very inviting despite the crowds of tourists and equal amount of touts (more…)
Filed under: Peru on July 13th, 2007 | 10 Comments »

We arrived to a dreary, damp Lima last night. Set on a plateau overlooking the Pacific, it is the second largest desert city in the world. Lima gets virtually no rain all year round, however you can feel a blanket of damp winter air sitting heavy on your shoulders and the chill traveling through your bones. We stay in the relatively flashy Miraflores area, the so-called Beverley Hills of South America. (more…)
Filed under: Peru on July 9th, 2007 | 2 Comments »

Went north to Otovalo today, which fights for first in the market scene in South America. The market, occupying several street blocks, was infused with color, displaying traditional Ecuadorian merchandise from ponchos to wall hangings and filled with aggressive merchants eager to make a sale. (more…)
Filed under: Ecuador on July 7th, 2007 | 2 Comments »

After the Cotopaxi attempt, we blow our budget and check ourselves into the well-deserved Termas Papallacta, a thermal hot springs 68 km south easterly of Quito. (more…)
Filed under: Ecuador on July 4th, 2007 | 3 Comments »

Ice pick. Check.
Crampons. Check.
Harness. Check.
Headlamp. Check.
Glacier goggles. Check.
Determination. I think. (more…)
Filed under: Ecuador on July 2nd, 2007 | 6 Comments »